Fabric crease and wrinkle property
- Crease in the fabric is a common term and in some kinds of fabrics its desired properties up to some extent.
- The creasing of a fabric during wear is basically a change in appearance, that is sometimes desired or sometimes undesired.
- The ability of a fabric to resist or come back to normal condition from creasing is completely dependent on the type of fibre used in the construction of the fabric, types of weave, and fabric thickness.
- Fibre like wool and cultivated silk has good resistance to creasing whereas cellulosic materials such as cotton, viscose, and linen have very poor resistance to creasing.
- Generally, resin finishes applied during the production of fabric will improve the crease resistance of the fabric.
- Another phenomenon used for indication of crease value is wrinkle formation.
- Wrinkles are three-dimensional versions of creases and forms when fabrics are forced to develop high levels of double curvature, which result in some degree of permanent in-plane and out-of-plane deformations.
- In general, the fabric will generate wrinkles after a certain processes such as folding, movement, pressing, laundering, and dressing.
- These wrinkles on the fabric surface cause an impact on garment quality and acceptability. For instance, it is an unpleasant feeling to be wearing a wrinkled shirt while attending some social activities.
- While certain parameters are necessary to classify the wrinkling status of a fabric surface.
- The wrinkle features can be divided into two major categories: geometrical features and textural features.
- Geometrical features are common features that can be used in terms of height, area, volume, and variance or statistical parameters.
- Textural features are basically the co-occurrence matrix and fractal dimensions are used to describe the textural properties.
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| Crease / Wrinkle on fabric |
Measurement of crease
To measure the crease/wrinkle property of the fabric, the fabric sample is first to take placed into the specific load so that an artificial crease or wrinkle generate.
Once an artificial crease is formed into the fabric, provide some time to the specimen in which the fabric tends to come back to its original positions as per the fabric characteristics.
The method most used in the laboratory to evaluate the wrinkle recovery of the fabric is the AATCC test method known as the ‘Wrinkle recovery of fabrics: appearance method’.
The principle of this method is to induce wrinkles in the fabric under standard atmospheric conditions in a standard wrinkle device under a predetermined load for a certain period.
Then the specimen is rated by comparing it with AATCC wrinkle replicas.
Another method is the AATCC test method known as a ‘Wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics: recovery angle’.
This method is used to determine the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics. It applies to fabrics made from any fibre, or combination of fibres.
Crease resistance and wrinkle formation of fabric are also measured under the KES and FAST systems.
Questions -
- What are fabric wrinkles and creases?
- How crease is measured on fabric?
References
Booth, J. E. :. (n.d.). Principles of textile testing an introduction to physical methods of testing textile fibres, yarns, and fabrics. London: National Trade Press Ltd,1961. from https://www.abebooks.co.uk/Principles-Textile-Testing-Introduction-Physical-Methods/19989810376/bd
Cenote, M. (2015). Google Books. In The SAGE Guide to Key Issues in Mass Media Ethics and Law (pp. 847–858). SAGE Publications, Inc.
Ferreiro López-Riobóo, J. I. (2015). Long-term (2001–2012) study of a proficiency testing scheme for textiles. Accreditation and Quality Assurance, 20(4), 239–245. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00769-015-1128-1
Measurement of Specific Handle Force of woven fabrics. (2020, September 15). Textilecoach. https://www.textilecoach.net/post/measurement-of-specific-handle-force-of-woven-fabrics
Objectively evaluating fabric handle. (n.d.). Innovationintextiles.com. from https://www.innovationintextiles.com/objectively-evaluating-fabric-handle/
Sinclair. (2018, November 17). Fabric hand. Polymerexpert.Biz; Polymer Expert. https://polymerexpert.biz/blog/150-objective-evaluation-of-fabric-hand
Subjective Evaluation of Fabric Hand. (2015, February 5). Textile Protection And Comfort Center. https://textiles.ncsu.edu/tpacc/comfort-performance/subjective-evaluation-of-fabric-hand/
(N.d.). Researchgate.net. from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/258195795_Objective_Evaluation_of_Fabric_Handle_by_Simple_Measurement_Methods
Further reading
