Corkscrew weave

Corkscrew weave

• Corkscrew weave has a similarity category with rearranged twill with some limitations. 

• A corkscrew is generally odd-numbered or even-numbered in terms of the number of ends and picks.

• An odd-numbered corkscrew is constructed in a regular manner, while an even-numbered corkscrew is constructed in an irregular manner.

Corkscrew weave

The corkscrew weave is classified into 4 types.

1. Warp way regular corkscrew weave.
2. Weft way regular corkscrew weave.
3. Warp-way irregular corkscrew weave.
4. Weft-way irregular corkscrew weave.

Construction of Corkscrew weave;

Corkscrews construct according to their type.

Construction of Warp way regular corkscrew weave.

• Select the repeat size of the design.
• Design size (repeat size) must be an odd number because the rearrangement of ends happens with one end left as it is. 
• To produce a warp-faced weave, the Warp float number must be one number higher than the weft float number. 
• i.e. - Warp float (4) = Weft float (3) + 1.  7X7 design is possible.

7				X	X	X	X
6			X	X	X	X
5		X	X	X	X
4	X	X	X	X
3	X	X	X				X
2	X	X				X	X
1	X				X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7

7X7 Ordinary twill

• Warp-faced corkscrew weave creates by rearranging warp threads from continuous twill weave. 
• i.e. - Arranging warp threads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 in 1, 5, 2, 6, 3, 7 and 4.

7		X		X		X	X
6		X		X	X		X
5		X	X		X		X
4	X		X		X		X
3	X		X		X	X
2	X		X	X		X
1	X	X		X		X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7

7X7 Warp-way regular Corkscrew weave

Construction of Weft way regular corkscrew weave.

• Select the repeat size of the design.
•  Design size (repeat size) must be an odd number because the rearrangement of picks happens with one pick left as it is. 
• While to produce a weft-faced weave, the weft float number must be one number higher than the warp float number. 
• i.e. - Weft float (4) = Warp float (3) + 1.  7X7 design is possible.
• Weft-faced corkscrew weave creates by rearranging weft threads from continuous twill weave. 
• i.e. - Arranging weft threads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 in 1, 5, 2, 6, 3, 7 and 4

7		X	X	X
6					X	X	X
5	X	X	X
4				X	X	X
3	X	X					X
2			X	X	X
1	X					X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7

7X7 Weft-way regular corkscrew weave

Construction of Warp way irregular corkscrew weave.

• Select the repeat size of the design.
• Design size must have a higher number of ends than picks.
• i.e. - 16X8 size of the design.
• Draw skipped inclined or declined twill. (Or ordinary twill with each step marking with alternatives.)
• This drawn twill creates a skipped draft. (Therefore, the design should also be constructed by drawing the first skipped draft.)
• Fill up the remaining alternate parts by also skipping twill. (Kind of skip or sateen draft.)

8								X							X
7						X							X
6				X							X
5		X							X
4							X									X
3					X									X
2			X									X
1	X									X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	11	12	13	14	15	16

• To complete an irregular corkscrew in a warped way, add a mark on the above twill. 
• (Marking appropriate on the above twill or consider the above twill as a baseline and then modified it.)
• Marking should be done in the vertical direction so that it will create a warp-way corkscrew weave.

8

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

7

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

6

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

5

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

4

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

3

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

2

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

1

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

16X8 Warp-way irregular Corkscrew weave

Construction of Weft way irregular corkscrew weave.

• Select the repeat size of the design.
• Design size must have a higher number of picks than ends.
• i.e. - 8X16 size of the design.
• Draw skipped inclined or declined twill. (Or ordinary twill with each step marking with alternatives.)
• This drawn twill is created as the straight draft. 
• Fill up the remaining alternate parts by also skipping twill. (Therefore, design first constructs by drawing first skipped twill, so that a straight draft will generate.)

16				X
15								X
14			X
13							X
12		X
11						X
10	X
9					X
8								X
7				X
6							X
5			X
4						X
3		X
2					X
1	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

• To complete an irregular corkscrew in a weft way, add a mark in twill. 
• (Marking appropriate at the side of the twill or consider the above twill as a baseline and then modified it.)
• Marking should be done in the horizontal direction so that it will create a weft-way corkscrew weave.

16				X	X	X
15	X	X						X
14			X	X	X
13	X						X	X
12		X	X	X
11						X	X	X
10	X	X	X
9					X	X	X
8	X	X						X
7				X	X	X
6	X						X	X
5			X	X	X
4						X	X	X
3		X	X	X
2					X	X	X
1	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X16 Weft-way irregular corkscrew weave

End-use of corkscrew weave

• The corkscrew weave is used to produce a firm and compact texture of good strength, warmth, and durability.
• The corkscrew weave is suitable for worsted fabrics that are why it is known as a hard weave design.

References

Miah, M. R. (2013, November 21). Twill Weave. Fibre2fashion.com; Fibre2Fashion. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7165/an-overview-of-twill-weave

Treasure. (2021, February 24). Twill weave - structure, properties, uses & types. TREASURE. https://blog.treasurie.com/twill-weave/

(N.d.-a). Masterclass.com. Retrieved 14 December 2022, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-twill-fabric-definition-and-characteristics-of-the-popular-twill-weave

(N.d.-b). Textilelearner.net, from https://textilelearner.net/twill-weave-features-classification-derivatives-and-uses/#:~:text=The%20order%20of%20interlacing%20which,be%20broken%20or%20reversed%20periodically.

Questions -

1. Give a classification of the corkscrew weave.
2. Construction of different types of corkscrew weave.
3. Construction of warp way regular corkscrew weave.
4. Construction of weft way regular corkscrew weave.
5. Construction of warp way irregular corkscrew weave.
6. Construction of weft-way irregular corkscrew weave.
7. What are the applications/end-use of corkscrew weave?

Writer - DSPAT Team