Construction of Satin/Sateen weave

Construction of Satin/ Sateen weave

Sateen weave

Satin/Sateen Move number rules

Satin/ Sateen weave is constructed by move number, which is selected according to the repeat size of the weave.

(A) Move number should not be one. (1st move number is not applicable..)

(B) The move number should not be equal to the repeat number of the weave. i.e.- for the 8X8 design move number 8 is not applicable.

(C) It should not be one less than the number of repeat sizes. i.e. - for 7X7 weave design 6 & 7 move number is not applicable.

(D) It should not be a factor of the repeat size, and a multiple of the factor. i.e. for 8X8 design move number 2, 4, and 6 is not applicable.
(According to these rules 5X5 is the minimum number of design because in 2X2 and 3X3 move number is not applicable in 4X4 2 move numbers are not valid according to rule (D). 6X6 is also not possible.)

Design size/ no. of ends	5	7	8	9	10	11	12	13	14
Move number	2	2, 3	3	2,4	3	2, 3, 4, 5	5	2,3,4,5,6	3,5

(Introduction of Satin/Sateen weave, Characteristics, and its use.)

Construction of regular Sateen weave;

Select the applicable move number and mark 1st place.
i.e.- 1st 'X' mark at 1st row and 1st Colum.

For move number 3, Take the 1st point as a reference and go 3 steps right side and 1 step upside and then mark. This mark 'X' is at the 4th Colum and 2nd row.

Then repeat it from the second mark and mark 'X' at the 7th Colum and 3rd row.

Repeat it until the design is complete.

(This fulfils the swift rule regularly.)

8	3					X	1	2
7			X	1	2	3
6	1	2	3					X
5					X	1	2	3
4		X	1	2	3
3	2	3					X	1
2				X	1	2	3
1	X	1	2	3
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8						X
7			X
6								X
5					X
4		X
3							X
2				X
1	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X8 Regular sateen weave

(With move number - 3)

Construction of irregular Sateen weave

Select the applicable move number and mark 1st place. i.e.- 1st 'X' mark at 1st row and 1st Colum.

For move number 3, Take the 1st point as a reference and go 3 steps right side and 1 step upside and then mark. This mark 'X' is at the 4th Colum and 2nd row.

Repeat it up to halfway.

At halfway, Take N/2 (for an even number of designs) or N+1/2 (for the odd number of designs), as a move number and then mark 'X'.
i.e. - For 8X8 designs, used 4 as a move number, and for 11X11 designs, used 6 as a move number. (This newly moved number was used only once at the half position of design)

Then for move number 3, Take the (D) marked point as a reference and go 3 steps left side and 1 step upside and then mark.

Then, repeat it until the design is complete.

(This will not fulfil the swift rule regularly.)

8					X
7					3	2	1	X
6	2	1	X					3
5			3	2	1	X
4		X	1	2	3	4
3	2	3					X	1
2				X	1	2	3
1	X	1	2	3
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8					X
7								X
6			X
5						X
4		X
3							X
2				X
1	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X8 Irregular Sateen weave

(With move number - 3)

In some cases, irregular Sateen weaves are also produced by given move numbers.

Here, all move numbers are given. So, take them one by one and mark them according to the particular move number. i.e. - For 8X8 weave.

6			X
5						X
4				X
3					X
2		X
1	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6

6X6 Irregular Sateen weave

(Move number- 1,3,5,2,3,4)

Construction of Regular satin weave

To Produce a Satin weave, reverse all floating or interlacement from regular sateen weave.

(Change warp and weft float or marking inversely to that design.) This is applied for both regular and irregular Satin weaves.

8	X	X	X	X	X		X	X
7	X	X		X	X	X	X	X
6	X	X	X	X	X	X	X
5	X	X	X	X		X	X	X
4	X		X	X	X	X	X	X
3	.	X	X	X	X	X		X
2	X	X	X		X	X	X	X
1		X	X	X	X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X8 Regular satin weave

(With move number - 3)

Construction of Irregular satin weave;

To Produce an irregular Satin weave, reverse all floating or interlacement from irregular sateen weave.

8	X	X	X	X		X	X	X
7	X	X	X	X	X	X	X
6	X	X		X	X	X	X	X
5	X	X	X	X	X		X	X
4	X		X	X	X	X	X	X
3	X	X	X	X	X	X		X
2	X	X	X		X	X	X	X
1		X	X	X	X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X8 Irregular satin weave

(With move number - 3)

Construction of modified Satin/ Sateen weave;

(A) Modified Satin/ Sateen weave is constructed by extending Satin/ Sateen weave in the warp direction.

(B) Modified Satin/ Sateen weave is constructed by extending Satin/ Sateen weave in the weft direction.

(This modification is rarely used because it creates a higher looseness effect.)

(D) Satin and Sateen combination in a design is possible and widely used.

(E) To produce strip-like effect satin and satin are combined in one design.

16X8 Satin-Sateen Strip

(F) For more modification and create checks like appearance, satin- and satin designs are combined by various types and then construct design.

5	X	X	X		X
4	X		X	X	X
3	X	X	X	X
2	X	X		X	X
1		X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5

10	X		X	X	X				x
9	X	X	X		X		x
8		X	X	X	X					x
7	X	X		X	X			x
6	X	X	X	X		X
5				x		X		X	X	X
4		x				X	X	X		X
3					x		X	X	X	X
2			x			X	X		X	X
1	X					X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10

10X10 Satin-Sateen checks

References

Miah, M. R. (2013, November 21). Twill Weave. Fibre2fashion.com; Fibre2Fashion. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7165/an-overview-of-twill-weave

Treasure. (2021, February 24). Twill weave - structure, properties, uses & types. TREASURE. https://blog.treasurie.com/twill-weave/

(N.d.-a). Masterclass.com. Retrieved 14 December 2022, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-twill-fabric-definition-and-characteristics-of-the-popular-twill-weave

(N.d.-b). Textilelearner.net, from https://textilelearner.net/twill-weave-features-classification-derivatives-and-uses/#:~:text=The%20order%20of%20interlacing%20which,be%20broken%20or%20reversed%20periodically.

Questions -

What is the move number rule in sateen/satin?
Construction of regular sateen weave.
Construction of irregular sateen weave.
Construction of regular satin weave.
Construction of irregular satin weave.
Construction of modified satin/sateen weave.

Writer - DSPAT Team

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