Broken twill

Broken twill

Broken twill weave

• Broken twill is made from breaking any Continuous twill weave.
• Continuity of twill can break either in a regular manner or in an irregular manner. 
• Broken twill creates Strip like effect. 
• If the breaking of continuity is in warp direction so stripes direction is in warp way and for weft direction, it creates stripes direction in weft way.  

Construct of broken twill

Broken twill construct in many ways depends on how continuous twill will be broken.
According to application and its appearance, it can be mainly constructed by following two methods.

(i) Break and reversal method - 

• In this method, the twill design break for a particular end or pick and then swap that end or pick. 

• i.e. - In the 8X8 design, end numbers 3 and 5 are swapped with end numbers 4 and 6 respectively. Or end numbers 3 and 4 are swapped with end numbers 5 and 6. 

8		X				X	X	X
7	X				X	X	X
6				X	X	X		X
5			X	X	X		X
4		X	X	X		X
3	X	X	X		X
2	X	X		X				X
1	X		X				X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

3/3 1/1 continuous twill

8		X			X		X	X
7	X				X	X	X
6			X		X	X		X
5			X	X		X	X
4		X	X	X	X
3	X	X		X		X
2	X	X	X					X
1	X			X			X	X
	1	2	4	3	6	5	7	8
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X8 Broken twill

• Here in the last twill, Either 3 and 4 numbered ends or 5 and 6 numbered ends the only swap, then it is also known as broken twill.
• In the Break and reversal method, it is a condition that a minimum of two ends or picks should be swapped to create broken effects.

• The two nearest single ends should be broken and reversal. This step also applies two or more times for different nearest ends or picks.
• I.e. - 2 with 3 numbered ends or picks break and reverse ( 1 3 2 4 5 6 7 8 ),  2 with 3, 4 with 5, and 6 with 7 numbered ends or picks break and reverse. ( 1 3 2 5 4 7 6 8 )
• The above step can also be applied to the whole twill with pair of even and odd-numbered ends or picks.
• I.e. -  1 with 2, 3 with 4, 5 with 6, and 7 with 8 numbered ends or picks break and reverse. ( 2 1 4 3 6 5 8 7 )
• Reversing ends or picks are also possible in pairs or pairs.
• I.e. - 2 and 3 numbered ends or picks are broken and reversed with 4 and 5 numbered ends or picks with pairs. ( 1 4 5 2 3 6 7 8 ), 1 and 2 numbered ends or picks with 4 and 5 numbered and 7 and 8 numbered ends or picks are broken and reversed. ( 7 8 3 1 2 6 4 5 ).
• Above break and reverse are in an equal manner, however, unequal manner of break and reversal is also possible.
• i.e. - 2,3 and 4 numbered ends or picks are with 5 and 6 numbered ends or picks break and reverse. ( 1 5 6 2 3 4 7 8 )
•  Above all examples are for 8X8 design.

• When the twill design becomes larger (more than 8X8 design), then the possibility of constructing broken twill by break and reversal is increasing due to higher numbers of ends and picks threads.

(ii) Entering and skipping method - 

• In this method, twill design breaks from alternate numbers or sequences or are added between alternate numbers or sequences. 
• i.e. - For 8X8 design end numbers 1, 3, 5, and 7 come first then end numbers 2, 4, 6, and 8 come, or all even-numbered ends, and odd-numbered ends are arranged in groups.

8		X				X	X	X
7	X				X	X	X
6				X	X	X		X
5			X	X	X		X
4		X	X	X		X
3	X	X	X		X
2	X	X		X				X
1	X		X				X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

3/3 1/1 continuous twill

8				X	X		X	X
7	X		X	X			X
6			X			X	X	X
5		X	X	X		X
4		X			X	X	X
3	X	X	X		X
2	X				X	X		X
1	X	X		X				X
	1	3	5	7	2	4	6	8
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

8X8 Broken twill

• Above entering and skipping methods are needed to follow in an equal manner for simply constructing the weave design.
• However unequal manner of entering and skipping are also possible and steps can also be applied for a particular set of ends or picks.
• I.e. -  2, 4, and 6 come first and then 3 and 5 numbered ends or picks come. ( 1 2 4 6 3 5 7 8 )
• When the twill design becomes larger (more than 8X8 design), then the possibility of constructing broken twill by entering and skipping is increasing due to higher numbers of ends and picks threads.

By Broken twill, a number of designs can be produced (by broken twill herringbone design also creates.) 

References

Miah, M. R. (2013, November 21). Twill Weave. Fibre2fashion.com; Fibre2Fashion. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7165/an-overview-of-twill-weave

Treasure. (2021, February 24). Twill weave - structure, properties, uses & types. TREASURE. https://blog.treasurie.com/twill-weave/

(N.d.-a). Masterclass.com. Retrieved 14 December 2022, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-twill-fabric-definition-and-characteristics-of-the-popular-twill-weave

(N.d.-b). Textilelearner.net, from https://textilelearner.net/twill-weave-features-classification-derivatives-and-uses/#:~:text=The%20order%20of%20interlacing%20which,be%20broken%20or%20reversed%20periodically.

Questions -

1. Construction of broken twill. OR how broken twill is made?
2. A different method to construct broken twill.
3. What is the break and reversal method?
4. What is the entering and skipping method?

Writer - DSPAT Team