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Plain weave

Plain weave 

(Plain weave Part-1) 

Calicos, Tabby is the other name of the plain weave.

Plain weave is the simplest weave as compared to other weaves.  

Plain weave is a simple weave of alternate marking of 2X2 weave.  

An ideal plain cloth is one that has identical or similar warp and weft constructional parameters.

Plain weave
Plain weave

Characteristics of Plain weave - 

  1. Plain weaves have a Number of binding points that are maximum than other weaves.
  2. Thread density is limited so, Mass per unit area and thickness are also limited.
  3. The simple weave of alternate marking (1 up and 1 down) of 2X2 weave.
  4. Plain structured fabric is a comparatively stronger fabric so that it can be obtained by any other simple combination of threads, except that of “gauze” or “cross weaving”. 

Producing a comparatively firm and strong texture of the cloth is possible in the plain weave because the interlacement of warp and weft is in contrary manner to each other. Plain weave has higher firmness due to its high number of interlacements. (As the interlacement is decreased, firmness is reduced. In the plain thread, interlacement is higher, so firmness is higher. )  

In Plain weave, create a range of products by textures through the following changes;

  • By various tension between ends
  • By using various counts of yarn
  • By selecting different types of yarn for warp and weft

(Here, the term ‘texture’ indicates the type of material, counts of yarn, the relative density of threads, weight, bulk, feel during handle, and other yarn properties. 

- By changing the above parameters weavers can produce different kinds of fabrics with different looks, strengths, and properties in the range of plain weave's properties. 

Application -


Plain weaves have a wide range of applications.

To make the following kinds of fabrics plain weave design is used.

Alpaca, Taffeta, Cambric, Muslin, Blanket, Canvas, Dhoti, Saree, Suiting


Construction of Plain weave

  • To construct plain weave on point paper mark 'X' alternate on the first warp way.
  • By marking 'X' alternate, creates first-end interlacements with wefts.
  • Take the second end and mark the 'X' alternative, but this time start with a second point. (If in the first end marking starts with the first point then, for the second end, start from the second point.)
  • Take the third end and mark the same as the first end.
  • In this way, continue with the same marking with even numbers and the same marking with odd numbers. 

Design,Draft and pegplan of Plain weave
Design, Draft, and peg plan of Plain weave

Plain weave has three modifications/Derivatives by extending its warp and weft.

  1. Warp rib
  2. Weft rib
  3. Matt


Br├╝nler, R., Hild, M., Aibibu, D., & Cherif, C. (2016). Fibre-based hybrid structures as scaffolds and implants for regenerative medicine. In Smart Textiles and their Applications (pp. 241–256). Elsevier.

Fabric structures. (n.d.).  from

Fabrics. (n.d.). , from

TexNim [@TexNim]. (2013, October 7). WOVEN FABRIC STRUCTURE Part 1. Youtube. 

Questions -

  1. What are the other names of plain weave?
  2. What are the characteristics of plain weave?
  3. How can a wide range of products be made in plain weave?
  4. What are the applications of plain weave?
  5. How the construction of the plain weave is done?
  6. Which are the derivatives/modification done in plain weave?

Writer - 

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