Derivatives of Plain weave

Derivatives of Plain weave

(Plain weave Part-2)

Plain weave is modified by some extensions and some fancy design. To create variations in plain weave characteristics, these types of modifications are helpful.

Plain weave has three modifications/Derivatives by extending its warp and weft.

1. Warp rib
2. Weft rib
3. Matt

Derivatives of plain weave

Warp rib

• The plain weave can be modified by extending its warp way. These extensions produce a rib or cord effect in the vertical direction, which is known as warp rib.

• If this extension is regular (The same number of ends up in extension as the main plain weave has), then it is a Regular warp rib.
• If this extension is irregular (a different number of ends up in the extension as compared to the main plain weave), then it is an irregular warp rib.

• To produce good quality fabric in Warp rib, EPI (ends per inch) and count of warp thread are higher than PPI (picks per inch) and count of weft thread.  (Here, Warp threads are finer and weft threads are coarser)This creates an enhanced effect.
• i.e. - Warp - 30s cotton Ends/inch - 126, Weft - 15s cotton Picks/inch - 38

8		X
7		X
6		X
5		X
4	X
3	X
2	X
1	X
	1	2

 Regular warp rib

6		X
5		X
4		X
3		X
2	X
1	X
	1	2

 Irregular weft rib

Weft rib

• The plain weave can be modified by extending its weft way. These extensions produce a rib or cord effect in the horizontal direction, which is known as the weft rib.

• If this extension is regular (The same number of picks down in extension as the main plain weave has), then it is a Regular weft rib.
• If this extension is irregular (different number of picks down in extension as compared to the main plain weave), then it is an irregular weft rib.

• To produce good quality fabric in Weft rib, PPI (picks per inch) and count of weft thread are higher than EPI (ends per inch) and count of warp thread. (Here, Weft threads are finer and warp threads are coarser)These create an enhanced effect.
• i.e. - Warp - 2/14s & 36s Ends/inch - 56, Weft - 18s Picks/inch - 100

2					X	X	X	X
1	X	X	X	x
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

Regular weft rib

2					X	X
1	X	X	X	x
	1	2	3	4	5	6

Irregular weft rib

End-use of warp and weft rib

• Gross grain fabrics, Faille fabrics, Bayadere fabrics, Rapp fabrics, Poplin fabrics (warp rib), Hair cord fabric (weft rib), and Matelassé fabrics are examples of warp rib or weft rib. 
• With the help of these fabrics, broadcloth, furniture (upholstering), Shantung, and Cambric picket handkerchiefs, employed for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles can be made.

Matt

• Matt is also known as Hopsack and Basketweave.

• The plain weave can be modified by extending in both the warp and weft ways. These extensions produce a rib or cord effect in both directions, which is known as the matt rib. This is like a checkerboard effect.

• If this extension is regular (Same extension in warp and weft direction), then it is a Regular matt rib. These ribs create equal effects on both sides of the fabric. 
• If this extension is irregular (different extension in warp and weft direction), then it is an irregular matt rib. This rib is creating unequal effects on fabric.

8					X	X	X	X
7					X	X	X	X
6					X	X	X	X
5					X	X	X	X
4	X	X	X	X
3	X	X	X	X
2	X	X	X	X
1	X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

Regular Matt

6					X	X
5					X	X
4	X	X	X	X
3	X	X	X	X
2	X	X	X	X
1	X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6

Irregular Matt

• Matt weave is quite heavier with the same thickness as compared to square fabric due to its smoothness and higher flexibility. Matt weave has less crepe generation and it drapes well due to its structure. 

• In Matt, weave threads are in pairs so it is more resistant to tearing. But due to less interlacement, looseness happens at the side of the fabric. To reduce this and modified matt weave, Stitched matt weave and Fancy matt weave are created.

 

Stitched matt weave

• Stitched matt weave is a modification of regular matt weave. 
• Stitched weave reduces the looseness effect by making weft floats over the warp floats at the centre of the warp floats at regular matt weave. (Canter ends in each square of warp over floats can be stitched.) 
• Stitching threads are hidden by neighbouring threads, so looseness reduces and creates more uniqueness.

10						X	X	X	X	X
9		X	X	X		X				X
8		X		X		X		X		X
7		X	X	X		X				X
6						X	X	X	X	X
5	X	X	X	X	X
4	X				X		X	X	X
3	X		X		X		X		X
2	X				X		X	X	X
1	X	X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10

8					X	X	X	X
7		X			X		X	X
6			X		X	X		X
5					X	X	X	X
4	X	X	X	X
3	X		X	X		X
2	X	X		X			X
1	X	X	X	X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8

Stitched Matt weave

Fancy Matt

• Fancy matt is a weave modification of regular matt weave. Fancy weave reduces the looseness effect and creates a fancy design (Decorative appearance) on the fabric surface.
• Fancy matt weave is created by stitching threads or reversing regular matt weaves. In Fancy matt weave stitching threads is always visible because it is not hidden as in stitched weave.
• Fancy matt becomes more attractive by using different coloured yarn and certain textures.

10		X		X		X		X		X
9	X	X		X		X		X
8				X		X		X	X	X
7	X	X	X	X		X
6						X	X	X	X	X
5	X	X	X	X	X
4					X		X	X	X	X
3	X	X	X		X		X
2			X		X		X		X	X
1	X		X		X		X		X
	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10

Fancy Matt weave

• (Method of reversing weave design for 8X8;

1. First, take the motif of 4X4 and observe floats
2. Now take the 4th end's floats and mark opposite floats at the 5th end's line.

i.e. X0X0 at 4th, so 0X0X at 5th only in 8X4

1. Then, take the 3rd end's floats and mark the opposite floats at the 6th end's line. 
2. Then, take the 2nd end's floats and mark the opposite floats at the 7th end's line.
3. Then, take the 1st end's floats and mark the opposite floats at the 8th end's line.

This creates an 8X4 design

1. The same things repeat but in upside a vertical direction
2. Like 5th weft has opposite floats of the 4th weft floats, the 6th weft has opposite floats of the 3rd weft floats, the 7th weft has opposite floats of the 2nd weft floats and the 8th weft have opposite floats of 1st weft floats.
3. Again repeat it, but the left side in the horizontal direction from the 7th point floats.
4. This will complete the 8X8 reversing design. )

Reversing weave design

End-use of matt weave

• Matt weave has a more flexible and smooth surface than a normal plain weave. 
• In Duck cloths, Outerwear cloth, Shirting, Diapers, Sailcloth, and Dress materials Matt's rib is used. 

References

Brünler, R., Hild, M., Aibibu, D., & Cherif, C. (2016). Fibre-based hybrid structures as scaffolds and implants for regenerative medicine. In Smart Textiles and their Applications (pp. 241–256). Elsevier.

Fabric structures. (n.d.). Designingbuildings.co.uk.  from https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Fabric_structures

Fabrics. (n.d.). Tensilefabric.co.uk. , from https://www.tensilefabric.co.uk/fabric-structures/fabrics.aspx

TexNim [@TexNim]. (2013, October 7). WOVEN FABRIC STRUCTURE Part 1. Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34P4sR6tP7M

The Editors of Encyclopedia Britannica. (2010). plain weave. In Encyclopedia Britannica.\

Textile School. (2010, October 27). Plain Weaves - weaving pattern. Textile School. https://www.textileschool.com/123/plain-weaves/

Questions -

1. Which are derivatives of plain weave?
2. What is warp rib?
3. What is an irregular warp rib?
4. What is weft rib? 
5. What is an irregular weft rib?
6. What are the end-users of warp and weft rib structures?
7. What is matt? 

Writer - DSPAT Team